Edie Campbell photographed by David Sims. Styled by Grace Coddington. Hair by Guido Palau. Make-up by Lucia Pieroni Palazzo Barbaro on the Grand Canal Venice, Italy
In his third season at Dior Haute Couture, Simons is pushing the envelope of tradition while simultaneously revealing his roots in rave-eva German minimalism. Here translucent layers of pure-driven white silk are strapped into ballooning tiers-like a Princess. Margaret crinoline govn in bondage.
THE LITTLE MERMAID
At Dior Haute Couture in Paris, Raf Simons continues to swim new waters while holding fast to lifeliness that link the house back to its 1950’s glory days on the Avenue Montaigne.
Proof! No, the carriage hasn’t turned back into a pumpkin at the stroke of midnight- but the bottom half of the classic, voluminous ball-dress bombe has disappeared. Giambattista Valli Haute Couture featured exquisite and weightless white party poufs, decorated like fragile Sevres China with delicate blossoms and a clinging diaphanous silk length trailing below.
Beneath the glass domes of the Grand Palais. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel Haute Couture magiced up a fairy-light play of translucence and layering on modern, metropolian dropped-waist dresses with a hint of Art Deco allure. As seen here, hand-painted 3-D patterns made it seem as if the tiny hands of Tinker Bell and company had rushed to the aid of les patites mains.
THE WICKED QUEEN
Yes, there is a virginal decorum to the Renaissance sleeves and high necks with which Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino have been enchanting couture doyennes and Hollywood damsels alike lately. But this Valentino Haute Couture dress embroidered with river pearls and gold threads-with its regal train and lily-lean line-has an air of seductive mastery and a very adult sophistication.
It’s as if she pricked her finger on the evil fairy’s enchanted spindle and is just waking from a slumber that lasted 100 years: The intricacies of the fabric treatments at Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda are from another time altogether. Here, handworked lace has been cut out and refashioned and appliqued to create a blossom-laden surface of hypnotic depth.
LA BELLE AT LA BETA
Notice how the sweet ivories and creams throughout are picked out with flashes of black gray? This is not a one-dimensional moment of fairy-tale froth; every white cloud, it would seem, has a dark lining. Chanel Haute Couture embroidered tulle dress and patent leather boots.
GAME OF THRONES
Christian Lacroix returned to couture with a joyful one-off collection revived the long-dormant house of Schiaparelli-paying antic homepage to its most indelible moments, from the Princess Kapurthala saris of 1935 to 1938’s circus theme. This candy-striped Schiaparalli duchesse-satin bustle dress also nods to a revival of Victoriana that the late couturier fostered earlier in that offbeat decade.